“I tried a bottle of their rich, chocolate porter: It was to Guinness what Guinness is to Bud.”
Guinness belongs to the world now, and you don’t need to travel farther than your local to taste it. What you can’t experience at home is the Irish rebirth of the drink that moved Arthur Guinness in the first place. Take West Kerry Brewery, a two-room operation, along the side of a remote Kerry coast road, where Adrienne Heslin and Paul O’Loingsigh use well water that is fresh and limey and perfect for dark beers.
I tried a bottle of their rich, chocolate porter: It was to Guinness what Guinness is to Bud.
Instead of the James Joyce pub crawl …
Adrienne and Paul are not alone, so why not sample some of the more than 80 ales, lagers and porters that are part this beer renaissance? Irish craft-beer site Jar.ie suggests a possible alterna-crawl with its list of top craft-beer pubs, among which Dublin’s 57 The Headline and L. Mulligan Grocers – with its focus on artisanal food – and three outposts of the Porterhouse chain are especially good examples. Another bonus: The route will take you into parts of town the tourist rarely goes. If you’ve already done the Joyce route, don’t worry: There’s no crossover